I’d always dreamed of a spa bathroom with double sinks and radiant flooring for those chilly late nights when nature calls—I just never imagined I’d find such delights in a log cabin deep in the woods, surrounded by nature.
The Ranch at Emerald Valley in the heart of Colorado’s Pikes Peak Forest sure isn’t like my childhood Girl Scout camps, places where the typical “amenities” included outdoor plumbing and picnic-table dining. But that’s exactly what the site used to be before it changed hands a century ago to Spencer Penrose, a miner who struck it rich and invested in real estate. He built the opulent Broadmoor Hotel in Colorado Springs in 1918, and constructed cabins at the former Scout site as a summer retreat. (Former Troopers need not fret: the Girl Scouts used sale proceeds to keep the organization thriving in the woods of Colorado Springs and surrounding area.)
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Today those cabins are part of the Broadmoor properties, and offer rustic refinement hugged by 100,000 acres of Pike National Forest. Surrounded by stunning blue skies, craggy peaks and towering pines, my family was just as enchanted by the site as Penrose must have been a century ago.
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My husband and I took our adventurous four-year-old Jimmy here for four days of hiking, fly fishing, and the first of what is sure to be many pony rides.
Our COVID-era baby loves spending time outdoors, but even given our adventurous nature, all three of us city slickers tend to spend more time indoors and in front of screens than we’d prefer. Our TV-free cabin (one of just 10) was a true escape from the sounds of cars and foot traffic at home in Boston.
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We settled in for three nights in a comfortable room with earth-toned Western patterns and wooden furnishings that transported us to a different time—and mind-set. Mom and Dad shared a queen bed surrounded by windows to let in the chirping of birds while Jimmy got his own cozy cot that nestled right into a spot next to the gas fireplace.
The Ranch at Emerald Valley’s warm welcome-wagon hospitality began from the moment our shuttle from the Broadmoor arrived after a 45-minute ride through pristine forest. We were greeted by the entire staff outside, who led us into the main lodge for warm cookies and blueberry lemonade. Mom and Dad were encouraged to add their choice of spirit to make it an adult beverage, with the option of several local craft liquors from the Olde Swan Tavern. We passed, but Jimmy quickly made a friend with bartender Zoe, who whips up mocktails for families with kids.
Drinks, meals and activities at the ranch are all-inclusive, and my husband and I were impressed with how quickly staff learned not only our names but my son’s allergies.
The chef customized a menu for the three days we were here so Jimmy could eat almost anything. Three-course dinners sure aren’t the chili and beans of the cowboy days here, and we feasted on beef from local ranches and produce from area farms. It’s all delightfully low-key, however, with shorts and jeans welcome in the main lodge, where the crackle of the wood-burning fireplace creates warmth in more ways than one.
Jimmy even tried trout after spending an afternoon learning how to cast with a fly-fishing instructor. Emiliano was like a patient older brother, baiting a kid-sized reel for the stocked pond and showing our junior angler how to reel in (and toss back) his slippery catch.
We all delighted in the hiking trails, the variety of which are suitable for the shortest or strongest and longest legs. Some of the more athletic couples opt for guided summit treks, but our family adventures through the wood and fields was an easy path with plenty to see—and taste. Jimmy ate his weight in wild raspberries, marveled at butterflies, and picked wildflowers for our cabin.
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The experience that brought some of the biggest smiles, however, was Jimmy’s first horseback ride atop petite mare Annie. Both she and the instructor were uber patient as he gingerly nudged her at first with his hiking boots, then used a little more force once he got the hang of it. As for Annie’s footwear, Jimmy was fascinated with her horseshoes—a perfect excuse to introduce the iconic lawn game.
One of our favorite parts of the Ranch at Emerald Valley experience was the opportunity to connect with other guests over a cocktail at happy hour and during nightly s’mores around the fire pit. We met couples on babymoons, others on romantic getaways who took advantage of the gorgeous cedar hot tubs, and teens on family vacations flipping the “off” switch on the Nintendo Switch. There was also a family who selected the largest cabin for their reunion after finally finding a spot they could all agree on. It was easy to see why.
Before Jimmy grows from four to 14, we’ve prioritized vacations like The Ranch at Emerald Valley. There’s enough space to spread out and disconnect, but reconnect with each other and nature, at home on the range.
