They call it “Vacationland” for a reason. With its sandy beaches, rocky shores, and thousands of islands floating in the frosty water, Maine’s coastline might as well be lifted from a dream. I’ve been vacationing in the state for years and feel lucky to be acquainted with its gorgeous scenery and array of outdoor activities.
When it comes to vacationing here, I take my cue from locals, who seem to somehow always find time to inhale the salty air and watch the tide roll in, even in the busy high season. Speaking of high season, Maine is justifiably popular in summer. But if you can manage to visit in fall, you’ll find blissfully light crowds and lower prices, with sunny days warm enough for ice-cream and delightfully cool nights that call for s’mores by the fire.
Better yet, the coast of Maine has a vacation fit for every style of travel. Here are five of my favorites.
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Harpswell
With more than 200 miles of coastline, Harpswell claims more shoreline than any other town in Maine. This slice of Midcoast Maine feels remote though it’s only a 45-minute drive to Portland. It’s made up of several large islands—Bailey, Orrs, Dingley and Great Islands—connected to the mainland by bridge, as well scores of small islands accessible by boat. Explore on a kayak tour or beach comb and spot the many migratory birds who stop here.
Harpswell Heritage Land Trust is dedicated to preserving the area’s natural resources. Curtis Farm Preserve is a 1.6-mile trail easy enough for most kindergarten kids. You’ll cross a fern-covered forest dotted with wild raspberries in summer as you meander down to the shoreline. Artists and craftspeople have been drawn to Maine for generations. Potter Susan Horowitz’s Ash Cove Pottery sells durable mugs and chowder bowls, excellent souvenirs. Seafood here is so fresh you can still taste the brine. Dolphin Marina and Restaurant has unbeatable views and luscious lobster stew served with a blueberry muffin.
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Stay: Built in 1761, The Harpswell Inn hits the sweet spot when it comes to merging historic with contemporary. Views of the working waterfront are exceptional. Stylish rooms wouldn’t be out of place in a boutique hotel, with vaulted ceilings and fireplaces accented with glazed tiles.
The wraparound porch is lined with comfy rockers and skylights. The sitting room has antique wide-plank wood floors and a roll top desk along with contemporary sofas and patterned wallpaper. Art by locals demonstrates a commitment to community. There are four kayaks and a standup paddleboard; I woke up early and paddled into the morning mist. To top it off, the inn is family-friendly. The lovely owners have a young child and offer thoughtful touches such as high chairs and kid-sized lifejackets.
Pemaquid Peninsula
Maine’s rugged shorelines and finger-like islands are sprinkled with lighthouses. Exploring these iconic structures is a must for lighthouse enthusiasts like myself. Even better, the rugged Pemaquid Peninsula (where you’ll find many of the most photogenic lighthouses) is lightly tread even in high season.
While I find beauty in all lighthouses, Pemaquid Point in New Harbor is a postcard. Commissioned by John Quincy Adams and immortalized by Edward Hopper in his painting Pemaquid Light, visitors may climb the tower’s 39 steps and explore maritime history at the Fisherman’s Museum, housed in what was formerly the lighthouse keeper’s residence.
I’ve spent many afternoons at nearby Pemaquid Beach Park, where the sand is as fine as powdered sugar. The water is always cold, but that never stopped my teens from jumping in. Family-run Mimi’s snack bar makes a great haddock wrap served with homemade tartar sauce and fresh-squeezed lemonade. For a slightly less frigid swimming option, drive to the swimming hole in Bristol Mills, 10 minutes from the beach.
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Stay: Sometimes, location really is everything. In New Harbor, The Bradley Inn is a three-minute walk from the lighthouse. I recently stayed in the Rugosa Room where flowers painted on driftwood, a fresh wildflower bouquet, and a view of the inn’s glorious gardens were on point. A library of Maine-themed books and cookbooks were a literary jackpot. For families, the Alewives suite has a queen-sized bed plus a connecting room with twin beds.
Breakfast, prepared with care by innkeepers Laura and Tony, is gourmet all the way. Book a table at dinner and be wowed by the creative cuisine their talented chef/son is turning out, from curry to crab cakes.
Freeport
Headquarters of L.L. Bean since 1912, the bustling town of Freeport is known for its preppy clothing and outdoor gear. A cluster of outlets and shops, including standards like Old Navy and local gems like Island Treasure Toys, have turned this town into a shopper’s paradise. In case you get the urge to buy a flannel shirt at midnight, the flagship L.L. Bean store is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. I still wear the same water-resistant Bean boots that I did in high school back in the 1980s.
After maxing out my credit card, I crave a sweet treat from Wilbur’s of Maine, where the chocolate-covered wild blueberries taste like the essence of Maine. My kids never tire of the factory tour. Wolfe’s Neck Woods State Park’s pine and hemlock forest and rocky shoreline is a quick drive from the shops. Follow the Casco Bay Trail to Googins Island and keep your eyes open for nesting osprey.
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Stay: Freeport’s Harraseeket Inn is down the street from L.L. Bean. Rooms are cozy and the grounds include a firepit and a spacious garden with lawn games. The indoor swimming pool is a beauty, perfect for lap swimming or splashing. The parlor’s fireplace and complimentary afternoon tea add elegance. A breakfast buffet is included in the rate.
Acadia National Park
Simply put, Acadia National Park is a nirvana for nature lovers. With more than 120 miles of trails, hiking is a quintessential part of the experience here. I gravitate towards the carriage roads (miles of interconnected loops for walking or cycling). Carpeted with crushed stone, these easy-to-handle paths wind past peaceful ponds and woodlands.
Jordan Pond Loop Trail is a gentle, 3.3-mile path around the pond. After your hike, savor the famous popovers at Jordan Pond House (advance reservations suggested). Getting around this remote area without a car is a snap, thanks to the free Island Explorer. These propane-powered vehicles link hotels with Acadia National Park from June through Columbus Day.
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Stay: Want to immerse in nature without sacrificing creature comforts? I tried glamping for the first time at Terramor Outdoor Resort. My tent looked like a luxury hotel room, with wood floors, double sink, and a two-headed shower tiled with stones. An electric sheet warmer kept me toasty at night and pour-over coffee from local roaster Coffee Hound woke me up. Wi-Fi worked like a charm. A private firepit and screened-in porch with Adirondack chairs were welcome touches.
Onsite dining includes a complimentary breakfast buffet, plus the restaurant is open in the evening. I reserved a grill 48 hours in advance and the helpful staff set me up with everything I needed for a cookout, from cornbread to steak. If you’re bringing the whole family, Terramor offers kids freedom to roam independently, as you park your car in the lot and walk the maze of car-free paths that connect the tents, pool, and wide-open spaces.
Portland
I’m a New Yorker who feels right at home in cities. Manageable-sized Portland has everything I want in a city, from history to culture to food, with none of the hassles. With seagulls strutting along cobblestone streets, the Old Port is its vibrant heart. Independently owned shops are the rule, including Sea Bags, where totes are cleverly crafted from recycled sails.
The Portland Museum of Art’s collection of Winslow Homer paintings depicting Maine maritime scenes presents a sense of place. Kids age 17 and younger are free, making a visit a low-stakes family activity. Learn about the city’s African-American history as you follow the Portland Freedom Trail, a self-guided, two-mile walk that sheds light on locals who stood at the forefront of the fight against slavery.
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Portland’s top-notch culinary scene is surprisingly accessible as well. For breakfast, I start with a caffeinated beverage from Bard Coffee and a buttery morning bun from Standard Baking Co. Family-owned Italian grocery store Micucci’s serves inexpensive pizza slabs fresh from the oven daily at 11:00 a.m. until they sell out. My Italian husband claims it’s the best pizza he’s ever eaten. (Micucci’s is closed on Sundays.) The shareable trio of mini lobster rolls from Allagash Brewery’s “Bit of Maine” food truck are still on my mind. Kids may run around in the outdoor play space or try a hands-on arts craft activity in summer.
Stay: I felt like a local when I stayed at The Docent’s Collection. Families may spread out as rooms are loft-style apartments with full kitchens. Contemporary local art ups the visual appeal. Apartments are conveniently located in the heart of the Old Port.
