Tell anyone you’re headed to Madeira, an archipelago off the coast of Morocco, and you’re likely to get a lot of blank looks. Even fewer people will know it’s an autonomous region of Portugal. But it’s 100 percent amazing for a family adventure, and my family would 100 percent return after our incredible five days there.
We were lured there by the prospect of new direct flights from Boston on Azores Airlines (also offered through Toronto and New York’s JFK airport). Just five hours from Boston—and on a jet lag-free daytime flight, no less—we were whisked away to a stay at the Savoy Palace in Funchal, the island’s capital. You can spot the resort’s elegant, wave-like exterior nestled into the oceanfront hills on the quick 20-minute ride from the airport.
Inside that impressive facade? Seventeen floors, 309 rooms, 43 suites, and eight restaurants and bars that officially earn the Savoy true “resort” status. We don’t normally opt for hotels quite as large because it can feel far removed from the culture and essence of a destination, but this is an entirely different experience. A 10-minute walk offers up a European capital with a history and culture stretching back centuries.
The resort: Funchal’s Savoy Palace
We balanced relaxation with activities in Madeira, spending our whole first day at the Savoy’s lake-sized pool before venturing out to see more of what’s called “the island of the eternal spring” thanks to its year-round temperate climate.
AWESOME POOLS: These family resorts go big on pools and waterslides
Also warm? The resort’s personalized service. My son Jimmy got high-fives and swag (like a stuffed version of the Savoy’s mascot, Mona the sea lion) wherever we went. Our first day was spent shrouded by the shade of magnificently landscaped grounds hugging the pool, the labeled flora forming a virtual botanical garden around us. The majority of swimming spots are four feet deep or less—perfect for children—but there’s also a kiddie pool that runs warmer because it’s just under 1.5 feet deep.
After splashing for a few hours, we hit up casual poolside restaurant Almeda for our first taste of an island specialty: black scabbard, a deep-sea fish that’s often served with banana and passionfruit sauce. (Both fruits grow plentifully on the island.) Jimmy ordered off the kids’ menu available in every Savoy restaurant, a menu that features fresh-made elevated versions of standards like chicken fingers and spaghetti and meatballs. The kid’s mousse with a crunchy chocolate shell and thin layer of marshmallow soon became a favorite for all three of us.
Jimmy learned how to make his own dessert at a cooking class in the kids’ playroom, which is staffed daily from morning until evening. Children can be dropped off for supervised play and enjoy coloring, movies, toys, and books—or meet new buddies during Little Chef experiences. On his first day, Jimmy made cookies and a few friends, whom we later hung out with in the pool and at dinner.
We also loved the “baby night” arrangement in our room, an add-on that was set up upon arrival with a child’s tent, coloring book and crayons, a fuzzy stuffed sheep to keep, and a star lantern. It was the most soothing “nightlight,” softly casting a rotation of constellations on the ceiling that lulled us all. The glow definitely helped with the blackout shades, sumptuous (and effective) drapes that shielded us from the sun’s early rays bouncing off the glittering Atlantic that we admired from our balcony. We all slept like babies here; Savoy rooms are blissfully quiet and absent of the ambient noise that’s common at other hotels.
Family-friendly activities around Madeira
While not quite as intrepid as Portuguese sailors, mine is an adventurous family. Well-rested and refreshed, we set out to explore landscapes unlike any other on earth.
We spent the greater part of one day on the northern coast in Porto Muniz, where volcanic pools on the northern coast are fed naturally by saltwater. Jimmy delighted in crabs skittering on the rocks, small fish fluttering at our feet below, the green landscape of the surrounding mountains towering above us. There’s a shaded playground, too, for kids who need a break from the sun.
To get around the island, it’s basically essential to have a rental car, but it’s easy to grab one for a day or two from agencies that are a short walk from the Savoy. Coming from Boston—notorious for its potholes—we marveled at how well-paved and navigable everything is. Signs are in Portuguese and English.
We spent another day cruising oceanside roads with vibrant panoramas at every turn on our way to the Fanal cloud forest for an easy hike. Madeira is renowned among experienced trekkers for its epic summits, but those were out of the question with a toddler.
On the way, we stopped at Levada do Paul II, an overlook with an easy one-mile hike that’s perfect for family selfies. Cows dotted the hills and vibrant butterflies floated above us as we strolled. This was also our first introduction to Madeiran levadas, distinctive irrigation channels built by the earliest settlers to direct water from the northern part of the island (where rainfall is more abundant) to the drier south.
Once we got higher into the cloud forest, we saw where all the water was coming from. Humidity and clouds created a mist that was like a Tolkien novel come to life. Moss-covered gnarled trees enchanted my son, and we made some new feathered friends who got quite close seeking snacks.
One of our favorite treats was popsicles made from island fruits like lemon and watermelon, which we got in one of the “casinhas de Santana”—unique thatched-roof cottages that looked like what Jimmy called “large fairy houses.”
One of our more heart-pounding experiences was the Monte toboggans—not the ride, however, but the adventure of getting there. The roads leading to Monte Hill were so steep and narrow that we considered turning the rental back toward the hotel. (If Mario Kart-style driving isn’t your jam, take the Funchal cable car to the parish of Monte, then glide down.) We marveled at the fast-paced spectacle of wicker baskets big enough for two adults flying around bends, charioteers in straw hats leading the charge on foot.
Madeira: A multi-dimensional delight
The evening called for kicking back a bit, and we enjoyed a seafood-centric dinner at Galaxia Skyfood with Portuguese wine pairings to toast a great trip. A special treat was the banana served with house-made gelato. At first glance, the fruit looks like it was just plucked from a tree. Upon closer inspection, I realized the dessert was an artfully crafted and painted chocolate shell. Like Madeira itself, it was a multidimensional surprise, just as much a feast for the eyes as food for thought.
